Last little bits

Decorative guard at the Topkapi Palace chats to a tourist

There is a fair bit of bling in the Topkapi Palace. Treasures from the Middle East, India, China, Korea are displayed in their glass cases, glinting away to make every magpie jealous. My favourite item had to be a throne plundered from India, made with gold and studded with... well I can't remember exactly what, but they were definitely shiny things. But as happens during one of those occasions when one becomes drowned in one type of art, the calligraphy, the fine craftsmanship, the intricate blue patterned tiles on the walls all began to merge into one glazed-over experience. At least I had time to wander on my own and choose my direction, whereas the bus-loads of tourists had to keep to their schedules, following their sign-holding guides like little ducklings following their mummy.

After a late start today there was no chance to go to the hamam, but I'll just have a hot bath when I get home and get a friend to thump me on the back. It may have the same effect and will certainly be a bit cheaper. After the palace I had my last chance to go to the Grand Bazaar and attempt some shopping, so hamams were 'orf' the menu.

Turkey is yet another country where haggling skills are necessary. Different countries have their own styles but of course the best thing anyone can do is be prepared to not buy the object they want. Today I spotted some long, cotton tops that I thought might be ideal for travelling in India, but the salesman soon lost his patience with me when I wouldn't name a price, while refusing to pay his.

"What is your price?" he asked repeatedly.

"I don't know," I said.

"How can you not know what price you pay?" he asked, exasperated.

So I had to explain. Firstly, I hate shopping. Secondly, I am mean with money. He grinned at me and asked, "True? You are mean with money?"

"Oh yes," I said. The price came down further, but I annoyed the poor chap even more by not buying anything even after he had expended all of that energy. Instead, I headed to a cafe for a Turkish coffee that probably put hairs on my chest.

And so it is soon goodbye to Istanbul and hello to Mumbai. I have enjoyed my stay and here are my ratings for the city so far:

Safety Rating: I cannot comment on safety at night time, but during the day Istanbul gets a ten out of ten for safety from a lone female perspective. :o)

Helpfulness Rating: Again ten out of ten.

Cleanliness Rating: Nine out of ten. Just a few loos where the Shewee could have been useful, but otherwise excellent.

Salesman Aggression Rating: On a scale of mouse to shark, Istanbul's salesman - in comparison to the shawl-wallahs of India - are pussycats. If you are not experienced with such salesmen, then they may possibly have a rating of undomesticated pussycat.

Traffic Rating: I had heard so much about Istanbul traffic, how mad it was, and was actually quite anxious. But again, in comparison to any Indian city, Istanbul's traffic gets a rating of boring to dull.

Cat Rating: Excellent. Istanbul is full of very cute, very soppy cats, usually sitting on the laps of street vendors or curled up on carpets out on display. Locals are seen to treat them well, and so they are very friendly. A bonus for a cat-idiot like me.

Accommodation: Bahaus gets competition from The Big Apple which is opposite, and which people say is cleaner and a bit cheaper. But for atmosphere, friendliness and helpfulness, Bahaus gets a clear ten out of ten. Definitely recommended.

Kebab Rating: Very, very good. But I don't think I want to look another kebab in the face for a very long time....